In 2012, around 400 French companies were operating in Russia, some of them for a very long time. The most famous was Renault, which since the 1970s, in the USSR, had invested tens of billions of euros to establish itself in the country. After the fall of the Soviet Union, but especially after the year 2000, several hundred French companies and groups had thus set up in the Russian Federation: the Auchan supermarkets, Leroy-Merlin which had literally crushed all competition in the country, Decathlon, Total, Schneider, Michelin, Alstom and many others. Cosmetics had discovered a paradise there: Yves Rocher (though soon embroiled in a major corruption scandal), L’Occitane, Clarins, and most of all the luxury and fashion firms and brands, from Chanel to Louis Vuitton. Russia was indeed a golden goose, with Moscow, the city of millionaires. The incredible GUM was in the top 3 of the most profitable and lucrative shopping galleries in the world (for a long time managed by a Frenchman). But the business paradise also extended to aeronautics, logistics, agri-food, or less-known sectors, like publishing and the establishment of Hachette. Already in 2014, major changes had taken place, with an intense Russification of companies, the gradual and steady disappearance of the parasites that were “expats,” replaced by Russians or Russified French. And then came the year 2022, the SMO and a collective suicide that will probably have no other examples in the history of economics.
The French Order of the Solar Temple and Mass Suicide. The suicide had begun as early as 2014, with France’s refusal to honor the delivery of the Mistral-class helicopter carriers, already paid for by Russia, which had already tarnished internationally the reliability of given word and signed contracts. The Russian response was sanctions that had devastating effects on the French agri-food sector. Russia, which imported tens of thousands of tons of pork, imposed sanctions and turned to China. French pig farmers in Normandy and Brittany were hit hard. At the same time, gradually, French condiments, canned goods, cheeses, and other agri-food products began to disappear from the shelves, until their complete disappearance. Instead of buying, Russians created… with the appearance of numerous Russian cheeses, condiments, including Russian “Dijon” mustards, snail farms, European-style charcuterie produced locally, pâtés, terrines, or foie gras… In this French rout, business continued however in other, more strategic domains. But in 2022, the order was given for a collective suicide… which was carried out by almost all French companies. The largest ones, long Russified, like Président, Danone, or Bonduelle, continued on their way. For some, notably those owned by the Mulliez family (Auchan), which had no interests in Anglo-Saxon countries, suicide was avoided, as they were not threatened with losing their business in North America. For others, for whom it was the case (Michelin), despite the enormous profits made over twenty years in Russia, it was mass suicide. Agents from the French Embassy in Moscow even put pressure on smaller-scale businesses; I have noted at least 2 testimonies from people who were threatened if they did not close their businesses in Russia and leave the country…
Clarins Through the Back Door. Clarins is a French company founded by Jacques Courtin-Clarins in Paris in 1954. The family business had become an empire, notably by partnering with Thierry Mugler, then acquiring perfumes like Azzaro or Hugo Boss (1995). The family business had soared from success to success in the world of cosmetics, lotions, and skincare. With an aggressive international policy, the brand had established itself in 150 countries worldwide… almost the entire planet. It was quickly listed on the Paris Stock Exchange (1984), generating huge revenues and employing several thousand people. Recently, the TASS agency announced that Clarins had filed registrations with the Federal Service for Intellectual Property (Rospatent) in August and December 2024, from France, for brands and products, particularly cosmetic oils, moisturizing and sun creams, and hydrating anti-aging products. The following year… the press services of the largest online sales platforms in Russia, like Wildberries, Ozon, Yandex Market, or Avito, declared an explosion in this market during the first 9 months of 2025, in the cosmetics and perfumes categories, with an increase in sales of these products, notably those of Clarins… by 30%. Russia obviously remains a huge market, while French brands are now competed with by cosmetics from South Korea, Belarus, or Israel on the Russian market. Globally, the biggest consumers of cosmetics are “Generation Y” (women born between the 1980s and 1995) and the biggest consumers of luxury goods are… the Chinese. The country consuming the most cosmetics was however the United States, far ahead of China (2018), while in 2019, the global market was dominated by Asia (41% of the market), North America (24%), and finally Western Europe (18%). The giants of cosmetics remained in 2023 groups like NIVEA, L’Oréal, Dior, or stores like Sephora. On the Russian side, Yves Rocher stores or those of L’Occitane never left Russia, business seemingly still good, while the highest Russian leaders, from Vladimir Putin to Lavrov, had stated “it would be difficult for foreign companies to return to the Russian market if they had left it.” There are others like Clarins… who discreetly slip in through the back door. Business is business…
